Placed at the Beagle Channel side and surrounded by the Martial Chain,
this town offers a unique landscape in Argentina: acombination of mountains,
sea, glaciers and forest. It is possible to go through the old part of
the city, watching the typical fuegian architecture, as well as, the End
of the World Museum and the Maritime Museum. Local painters, photographers
and artisans, gather at the Culture House and the old Family Beban's Residence
to show their works.
There is an interesting footpath to
get to the base of the Martial Glacier for nature's lovers, from where
you will have a wonderful view of the city, Beagle Channel and the glacier
itself.
It belongs to the protected Andean Patagonian
natural areas system, Tierra del Fuego National Park, is the southernmost
(in Argentina) and limits in his occidental side with Republic of Chile.
It was planned so as to give c ontinuity to the protection given to the
subantarctic forest.
ALTOS DEL VALLE
THE
DOGS The refuge
counts with a Siberian Husky and Alaskan kennel that produces our racing
and draught dogs. Along with them, Eco, the great Alaskan white wolf majestically
keeps guards of the movements around the refuge.
THE
RACING AND PACK SLEDS
The hand made sled manufacture has a millenary tradition that comes from
the countries around the North Pole. In Akeaata this task has been maintained
for sixteen years. In a small workshop, the noble patagonian lenga is
prepared, curved, and pressed to craft the sleds. These are sold along
with different accessories all around the Patagonia and they have reached
France and Spain.
THE ACTIVITIES
During the winter several activities can be practiced: cross-country skiing,
dog sled tours, trekking in the woods wearing snow rackets. The children
have small sleds available to sled through the snowy ladders. The firesides
during the night gather the bravest people.
During the summer, the sled skies are replace by wheels, horse rides,
and mountain bikes, for tours during the day and night. We always come
back to the refuge where a friendly talk is held by the chimneyís
fire along with a comforting drink.
SNOW
CATS Modern snow
cats, where we tie a sled when needed, are used in the island, making
thirty minutes rides (2,6 miles) and 4 hours rides (13 miles) allowing
unsuspected sites to be discovered.
WINTER IN USHUAIA
During the winter tourist season, Ushuaia
offers a large variety of activities so as to enjoy snow. The magnificent
fuegian geography allows the ski practicing, alpine skiing (in descent)
as well as, cross country skiing (flat land). Temperatures, in winter,
are not too low as in the other places at the same latitude in the North
Hemisphere, due to the insular characteristics of Tierra del Fuego. The
average temperature in town is 1,6° C between May and August, being
July the coldest month of the year with extreme minimum temperatures that
reach -21° C in the valleys.
In order to practice cross
country skiing, there are different Winter Sport Resort. The nearest one
is "Francisco Jerman" ski slope, placed in the Martial Chain
(that surrounds the city) and the rest are located in the north area of
the city, along N° 3 National Road, from km 17 to km 36, in the following
order: Altos del Valle, Solar del Bosque, Valle de los Huskies, Tierra
Mayor, Las Cotorras and Haruwen. These resorts offer, not just the possibility
of skiing, between mountains and glaciers, but they also organize trekking
with snowshoes, crossing on sledge dogs, rides on snow cats or four-wheeled
motor cycles, picture safaris, ice skating and tours on flex mobile, among
other activities. All centres rent the equipment to practice the different
sports, give group or individual classes, have got refuges, tea rooms
and restaurants where typical food is served.
As regards alpine skiing, there are two ski slopes a few kilometres away
from town "Wolfang Wallner" Ushuaia Andean Club Ski Slope and
Martial Glacier Ski Slope with a skiing surface of 850 m. and 1150 m.,
respectively.
Recently opened, Cerro Castor, placed 26 km north-east from town, on N°3
National Road, is the most important, at the moment. It has got 15 ski
slope, most of them for medium level skiers, and the most modern ski lifts.
On the other hand, tourist and residents participate of several sportive
and cultural meetings that take place during winter. The most important
are: Longest Night National Party, musical event that on June 20th opens
the winter season, the traditional White March and the Valleys' March,
crossings on cross country skies that join the winter resorts, congregating
families and reaching national and international importance. It is important
to mention the Snow Sculptors National Meeting, an imposing show of art
in ice, Ushuaia Sledge Dog Race, a competitive adventure that lasts several
days on sledge dogs and the End of the World Rally, national competition
in which the best pilots of the country take place and it stands out for
being one of the few races ran fully on ice and snow.
Ushuaia, year by year increases the infrastructure of Winter Resorts and
organizes new events, offering more alternatives to receive the tourist
of the new millennium.
It belongs to the protected Andean Patagonian
natural areas system, Tierra del Fuego National Park, is the southernmost
(in Argentina) and limits in his occidental side with Republic of Chile.
It was planned so as to give continuity to the protection given to the
subantarctic forest. Although the natural conformation of Tierra del Fuego
National Park is not so different from the rest of the parks, what makes
it special, is the fact that it is the only one that has got maritime
coasts (a total of 6 km.) because its meridian border is watered by the
Beagle Channel waters.
Besides being representative of the local flora and fauna, the Tierra
del Fuego National Park keeps archaeological remains of the Yamana natives.
Another attraction inside the Tierra del Fuego National Park is finding
the end of N° 3 National Road and Pan-American Road, in the famous
and beautiful Lapataia Bay.
Tierra del Fuego National Park was created on October 15th 1960, by law
N° 15.554 and is placed 11km away from Ushuaia city, in the south-west
extreme of Argentina side of the Main Island of Tierra del Fuego. Tierra
del Fuego National Park has got 63.000 ha and just the south area (2000
ha approximately) is destined for recreational and educational use of
the local population and tourism.
Besides organized tours, different activities can be done inside Tierra
del Fuego National Park, such us: trekking, camping, sport fishing, bird
watching and yachting with no engine boats, during winter it is an ideal
place for cross country skiing.
TIERRA DEL FUEGO
NATIONAL PARK - RECOMENDATIONS:
· It is absolutely forbidden to drive any kind of car out of N°
3 National Road and secondary roads.
· Maximum speed, once in the park, is 40 km/h.
· If you want fish, it is necessary to bear in mind, that beginning
and ending of the fishing season, as well as the license, are different
to the rest of the province.
· The extraction of mussels and bivalve molluses is forbidden because
of Red Tide (Death Risk). It is not allowed to cut or take off elements
of the ecosystem.
· Do not make any kind of inscription on rocks, trees, etc.
· Hunting and carrying weapons deserve severe punishment.
· Do not drop trashes, put them in a bag and bring them to the
city with you.
· Attention: In Lago Roca area it is recommendable to boil water
for 5 minutes before drinking it.
· The Park´s Intendance office is located on 1395 San Martín
St.
FOOTPATHS INSIDE
TIERRA DEL FUEGO NATIONAL PARK
PAMPA ALTA:
The climbing path to Pampa Alta hill begins in N°3 National road,
about 3 km away from the park's entrance gate. Half way of the track an
active beavers 'dam can be seen as you get to the top. You enjoy a beautiful
panoramic view of the western part of the Beagle channel including Redonda
Island and Chilean Island Navarino and Hoste. To the northwest you will
see the outstanding Guanaco Hill. Afterwards you can walk down towards
Cañadon del Toro or return by previous path. This hill is about
300 high and it takes about one hour to get the top.
The other possibility is finding this track as of the path that leads
you towards Cañadon del Toro. Degree of difficulty: Medium - Length:
5 km (going down Cañadon del Toro).
SALTOS DEL RIO PIPO:
At the end of the road that goes into Cañadon del Toro you will
find a track that runs beside Río Pipo and takes you to its waterfalls.
Degree of difficulty: Soft - Length: 300 m.
SENDA COSTERA: At the end of the road that
leads cars to bahía Ensenada you will find a footpath that goes
westwards along the shore of the Beagle channel allowing you to see a
combination of forest and sea coasts. Unique place to watch marine and
coastal avifauna, also different kinds of trees and bushes, most of them
bloom in summertime. These shores were the home of Yamana natives which
become obvious for the profuse remains of shells and ash monticules which
are covered now by herbal vegetation (Indian middens).
At last the track goes back towards where it ends. This walk takes about
three hours. It can also be done the other way round. Degree of difficulty:
Medium - Length: 8 km.
PASEO DE LA ISLA:
This path begins after crossing over the bridge on Lapataia river, opposite
the National Park Gendarmery Station and takes you to a section of the
Cormoranes archipelago. You can enjoy a beautiful view with little effort.
There is also the possibility of watching forests and coastal birds. Degree
of difficulty: Soft - Length: 1,5 km.
LAGUNA NEGRA:
This is the round footpath that begins after crossing over the Ovando
river bridge, on the right hand side. It is the best way to observe a
peat-bog formation.
Degree of difficulty: Soft - Length: 1 km. (the whole circuit).
LAS LENGAS:
It is located after crossing the bridge over the Ovando river on the left-hand
side. This path includes two different tours: Lookout track presenting
a panoramic view of Lapataia bay and the possibility of later going down
towards it and peat-bog track climbing fuegian forest, peat-bogs and abandoned
beavers'dams.
Degree of difficulty: Soft - Length: 2 km (low)
CASTORERA:
Starts at the end the N° 3 national road and as it goes into the forest
many beavers'dams can be seen. It can be done in combination with peat-bog
track (Circuito Las Lengas). Degree of difficulty: Soft - Length: 200
m (low)
XXIV BOUNDARY: 8 km way from the park entrance and after
going through the Lago Roca parking lot this footpath starts. Going along
the coast on the northern side of the lake it goes as far as Hito XXIV,
which is the actual boundary between Argentina and Chile. It takes three
hours forth and back, in the meantime you can enjoy ravishing view of
Piramide chain and lake Roca while walking among high deciduous beech
forests that cover the Guanaco chain, which can be seen on the right-hand
side. Degree of difficulty: Soft - Length: 5 km (low).
CERRO GUANACO:
This track starts in the same place as the one that takes you to Hito
XXIV, but goes fast upwards to the right after crossing the first stream.
It takes about four hours to get to the top of the mountain, which is
970 m high above sea level, from up there you have a wonderful view of
the Beagle channel, Cañadon del Toro and Chilean Islands Navarino
and Hoste. Another option, after only two and a half hours walking you
can get to a lookout from which lago Roca is seen and also the southern
area of the park. Degree of difficulty: Demanding - Length: 8 km (low).
SPECIAL EXCURSIONS
IN USHUAIA
FROM USHUAIA:
TEMPANOS LAGOON The track, in its first part, goes through
the Andorra valley that spreads between Martial and Vinciguerra chain.
Then it turns northwards so as to climb by the side of the highest hill
of the last mountain range (Vinciguerra).
In the first place you must leave from Ushuaia, going along N° 3 National
Road (high layout) northwards, until a neighbourhood also called "Andorra"
is found on the left side and before crossing the bridge over the Grande
stream. This is an unpaved road, but good enough for cars and leads you
to different places: If you follow it all along you will find a series
of waterfalls belonging to the above mentioned stream (De los Amigos Waterfall).
If you previously take a turn to the left a green gate will be found where
the car must be left behind. As you go on walking a series of buildings
will be seen belonging to a peat-bog company and, finally you get to the
stream.
As you go northeast beside it you will find a hanging bridge. Once you
have crossed it, you must continue westwards, always near the water and
going through an area with humid pastures until a wood gangplank is to
be seen which clearly points out the track. Then it goes into the wood
and starts climbing up the mountain in a direct way therefore being quite
difficult. It is not easy to go on as you are near the end of the wood,
but it can be followed watching the end of the same at the beginning of
the high pasture. It is very important to remember and signal the place
where the track and the forest are left behind so as not to get lost on
the way back. Once out of the forest, you must go on climbing diagonally
westwards along a path that can be clearly identified which also has stone
walls every now and then. This footpath runs along the west side of the
mountain northwards and stars slowly going down onto the valley that was
formed by the "Témpanos" Lagoon. You go through it, across
the above mentioned stream (better do it before going any further upwards)
until you start climbing on bare rock and finally arrive to the lagoon.
Once there you will be able to see the water and the glacier tongue that
ends at the Vinciguerra glacier, which is about 7 m. high. It takes about
two or three hours to get there.
To get back you can go down walking along the same place where you came
from or else along the valley formed by the stream whose source is the
lagoon. In this latter case it might be more difficult due to many fallen
trees, beaver dams and humid areas. Degree of difficulty: demanding.
FROM USHUAIA: ESMERALDA
LAGOON
This is one of the easiest trekking can be done near the city but it is
really worth doing and highly satisfactory. The lagoon is located in a
deep valley of glacial origin, between the Bonete hill on the West and
Toribio chain, on the East.
To get there easily you have to take N° 3 National Road up to a winter
sports resort called "Altos del Valle", 18 km north of Ushuaia.
Once in the parking lot of the resort you must go through the house section
and the place where they breed dogs leaving them behind, and then you
will see a very obvious track to the left, which is very easy to follow.
It is important to keep the following items in mind:
· First of all you are going to cover a small wooded area.
· Afterwards you are going to walk through a peat-bog. At the end
of it, to the right there lies a wooden bridge to get you across "Esmeralda"
stream.
· That is how you get into the forest again and there the track
forks. Take the one that stays near the river and turn left (West).
· After the forest, a peat-bog is to be found again.
Once more you go into the forest until you get out of it almost in the
final area which has no trees and is crossed out by the stream that comes
from the lagoon. It is important to remember this place and leave some
sort of signal so as not get lost on the way back. Always keep walking
towards the end of the valley until you find a small hill which has to
be climbed This is the last obstacle before finally getting to the lagoon.
All this expedition does not take more than two hours, and as the name
itself indicates, the water is really emerald green and is framed by fabulous
mountains. You can also go around it walking on the East shore. This track
was well market in older days but not any more because the wind knocked
down many trees. It is much better to walk along the lake shore and follow
the stream that feeds it. Degree of difficulty: medium.
FROM USHUAIA: ALBINO
GLACIER Walking further along the already described
track, you get to the end of the forest and find an area full of huge
crumbled rocks. From here on you will have a beautiful view of the Martial
Mountain Range and the Vinciguerra chain as you start climbing up towards
Albino glacier and its upper lagoon (Ojo del Albino).
Once you get to the glacier tongue, you must abruptly turn left and start
climbing a series of rocky walls that are not too difficult, therefore
no special equipment is needed.
At last you get to the upper part of the glacier from where you can watch
the lagoon. It takes about three hours to walk from Esmeralda lagoon.
To come back, take the same track that you took all the way up. Degree
of difficulty: demanding.
Tierra del Fuego offers many possibilities
as regards special excursions: trekking, mountaineering, horse riding,
sailing, circuits on mountain bikes and 4x4 cars, fishing and diving,
among others.
Lasting of the different itineraries and the circuits vary according to
the responsible operator. In all cases, groups are small, using transportation
of less than 12 seats and/or little boats or sailing boats.
FROM USHUAIA:
FULL DAY TREKKING:
Going with a guide, you will have the possibility of discovering a different
Tierra del Fuego: walks that combine peat-bogs, dense forests and climbing
to interesting panoramic views. There are different alternatives that
include: transfer, guide, lunch-box and eventually equipment (raining
cloak, rucksack, etc.)
Several Days Camping: the more venturesome ones can take different options
inside Tierra del Fuego National Park or go through the valleys beyond
the Martial Mountains, scattered with lagoons and surrounded by big mountains
and glaciers.
FROM USHUAIA:
MOUNTAINEERING:
Experienced guides will lead you along these crossings, whose difficulty
degrees vary according to the tour and they last one or two days. The
mountains of this are show a combination of rock, alluvium, ice or snow.
As a contrast you can find yourself in the forest and over peat-bogs.
Once you reach the summit, you will be able to discover the most incredible
scenery.
FROM USHUAIA:
HORSE RIDING:
There are several circuits lasting different periods of time. You can
either do it on your own following a predetermined path or take a guided
tour (in charge of an expert) that can lead you, to inaccessible places.
FROM USHUAIA:
MOUNTAIN BIKES:
This sport can be fully performed inside the national park. Being accompanied
by a guide, you can ride along many paths which enables you to see the
rich fuegian landscape. The price of this tour includes: transfer to the
park, the bicycle, rucksack, rain suit, helmet and lunch-box.
FROM USHUAIA:
4X4:
Tthese tours are meant to
take you cross-country along roads that are practically non existent,
thus being a good way to make you feel in close contact with nature. The
fare includes, not only transportation and food, but also a guide who
will provide interesting and useful information.
Overflights: for those who love panoramic views, but do not want to clim
a mountain, small planes that leave from the local airport, will give
you the oppotunity to get a wonderful view of the end of the world.
FROM USHUAIA:
FISHING TOURS:
Tierra del Fuego trout are among the biggest ones in the world. Between
December and March you will be able to enjoy fishing tours that last one
or more days. The price for same include transportation, guide services,
meals, equipment and in certain cases, even the fishing licences.
On January 1896 the first group
of 14 convicts arrived on board the naval ship "1° de Mayo".
In this way the "reincidents jail" got under way housed temporarily
in wooden and tin hunts.
The idea was to colonize with convicts and they immediately sent 11 more
men and 9 women volunteers. All were ex-convicts who had fallen again.
MILITARY
PRISON The Military
Prison on The Isla de los Estados, First functioned in San Juan de Salvamento
an later in Puerto Cook. In December 1902 was moved for humanitarian reason
to Ushuaia. The place chosen was Puerto Golondrina to the west of the
city. There was notion to build a penal colony also this not prosper.
In 1911 the president of the Nation signed a decree that fused the Military
Prison and the jail of Ushuaia.
THE BUILDING
CONSTRUCTION I In 1902 construction
started in the National Prison. The site selected was the same where temporary
constructions were, east of the little town of Ushuaia which consisted
of little more than 40 houses. Until 1920 the constructions continued
on the jail which was done by the convicts.
The originated idea was to build a Penal Colony for 580 convicts at Lapataia,
for which 2500 acres of land were reserved on the border with Chile.
In 1920 the jail had 5 pavilions with 79 exterior facing cells each. The
380 cells were single but the jail housed more than 600 convicts at one
time.
Between the N° 1 and 5 a bakery. To the front of the bay an administration
building was erected. The workshops were housed in separate buildings.
Only in 1943 a modern hospital was inaugurated which later became the
hospital for the Naval Base and for a long time the only hospital in the
zone.
The Main Hall was used as a conference hall, cinema and auditorium for
any occasion.
WORK AND DISCIPLINE As time went
by, convicts guilty of serious crimes, many for lifetime or long sentences
were sent there.
The system used was based on work for lifetime with a little salary. They
also had primary school education and sever discipline.
The jail had 30 different work areas, some being outside the limits of
the jail.
The workshops tended the jails needs and rendered services to all the
town of Ushuaia. These were the first press, telephone, electricity, fire
station, etc.
Outside the jail the convicts were used for building streets, bridges,
buildings and also all the timberland.
In this way thanks to the convicts a railway was built in the year 1910.
This became the southernmost railway in the world. Was 25 km long and
ran alongside Maipu street to Monte Susana and split in two sections towards
what is today the National Park.
The jail had various ships among which the "Godoy" was the most
known. In 1947 the President of the Nation disposed the closure of the
jail and installations were transferred to the Navy and Naval Base was
installed there in 1950.
NAVIGATIONS
ALONG BEAGLE CHANNEL
Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego
Beagle Channel, with its bays, islets
and rich flora and fauna, deserves to be visited. So as to make this tour,
you can choose between several boats: catamarans, motorboats and motor
sailing boats, dingy boats and vessels. Lasting of these trips varies
according to the kind of boat and circuit.
NAVIGATIONS
DEPARTING FROM USHUAIA
An excursion that could be considered
as classic, and it is available all year round, is the one called Sea
Lions's Island. This voyage goes until the Les Eclaireurs lighthouse,
that shows the entrance to Ushuaia's bay to the navigators.
During the circuit several species of birds and colony of sea lions and
Antarctic fur seals are seen. A variant of this excursion, available just
in summer, leaves from Ushuaia towards Lapataia Bay in Tierra del Fuego
National Park, from where you come back to make the classical excursion
to the Sea Lions´ Island. Some options (in both excursions) include
trekking.
From mid of October till beginning of April, the navigation to the Sea
Lions´ Island-Penguins'Rookery-Harberton Ranch leaves regularly
(this excursion could be considered as a three in one tour, you can choose
if you want to take the entire tour or just the first circuits). After
going through the Sea Lions's Island and Les Eclaireurs lighthouse, it
continues to Martillo Island (settlement of Magellan penguins during summer).
If you take the entire excursion, the navigation continues to Harberton
Ranch, first ranch established in the province, where a guided trekking
takes place.
NAVIGATIONS
DEPARTING FROM BAHÍA ENSENADA
From Bahía Ensenada, in Tierra
del Fuego National Park, and if weather conditions allows it, you will
be able to navigate on board dingy boats towards Redonda Island (where
a footpath gives you the opportunity to enjoy a beautiful panoramic view
of the channel) Lapataia Bay or the XXVI Boundary.
NAVIGATIONS
DEPARTING FROM HARBERTON RANCH
A dingy boat makes regular departures,
in summer, leaving from the ranch to the penguins'rookery in Martillo
island (another option for those who want to know the settlement of penguins
making a short navigation). Between October and April, there is a bus
service from Ushuaia city so as to get to Harberton Ranch.
OTHER NAVIGATION
There are several options available
for sailing lovers, such as: the classical tour to the Sea Lions'Island,
Penguins'Rookery and Harberton Ranch or those which last many days, so
as to reach for away destinies like Staten Island, fuegian channel and
Cape Horn.
USHUAIA: HISTORY
& NATIVES
THE
ORIGINS OF NAME USHUAIA Then the
first white men arrived to this area, they found out that the natives
referred to this beautiful bay well protected against the winds and surrounded
by mountains as "Ooshooia" or "Ouchouaya". The first
persons who got in touch with the natives were English speaking sailors
and missionaries; therefore the right pronunciation was "Ushuuaia".
Finally the name become "Ushuaia" both for the bay and for the
town that started growing around it, until it become the southernmost
city in the world.
What is the meaning of this word for the Yamana natives? It simply meant
"bay penetrating Westwards" or "bay towards the end "
. This description turned out very accurate.
HISTORY
OF USHUAIA During the sixteenth
century and after living in the area for 6000 years, the southernmost
inhabitants in the earth got in touch for the very first time with European
expeditions.
At the end of the eighteenth century and the beginning of the nineteenth,
the outer coasts of the Magellan-fuegian archipelago were visited by sea
lion hunters and members of different expeditions, for example Captain
Fitz Roy, commanding the Beagle brigantine, who discovered the channel
named after him.
The history of Ushuaia begins about 1869 when the Anglican missionary
Stirling arrived on board the Allen Gardiner schooner, in order to evangelize
the natives. This task was followed afterwards by reverend Thomas Bridges.
In 1882 president Roca put forward the bill of "Penal colony for
South of Republic", so as to solve the penitentiary problem, start
the population and thus assure the sovereignty in these (for them) remote
sites.
On September 1884 the South Atlantic Expeditionary Division commanded
by Colonel Augusto Lasserre, arrived at Ushuaia bay so as to set a coast
guard and it is then when the national flag was officially hoisted for
the first time in this area. The date October 12th, same year, was officially
declared the birthday of Ushuaia, today the capital of the province.
A military prison was set up in San Juan de Salvamento (in The Staten
Island, to the East), which was them transferred to Golondrina bay in
1911 merged with the jail in Ushuaia, by a presidential decree-law.
It is impossible to imagine Ushuaia without the prison. Thanks to prisoners'
labour the town had electricity very early, the same as the pier, the
post office and the road building. The workshops, such as the printing
house, photography, the tailoring, the shoe shop, carpenter's shop, medical
service and drugstore, filled the population's demands which by that time
was far from the main supply centre (Buenos Aires), from where the ships
came once a month.
The national government decided to close the prison in 1947 and the Navy
Department took control of the building. By that time the population of
Ushuaia had already increased to 2182 inhabitants.
The quiet life in the town was changed when the immigrants began coming
from different countries of the world, such as Croatia, Italy, Spain,
Lebanon, etc., most of them decided to stay here for ever after finishing
the job they came to do (settling a factory of sardine canning or house
building). The 70´s marked another stage in the history of Ushuaia
with the promulgation of the industrial law, which provided customs benefits
in order to encourage the regional economy. Many Argentinean coming from
other provinces were attracted by the possibilities of finding a job and
save money.
Little by little the city was growing...
NATIVES OF
USHUAIA AREA AND TIERRA DEL FUEGO ISLAND 30.000 years ago,
according to a wide spread theory, during one of the big glaciations that
covered the planet, man crossed the Bering Strait (from Asia to North
America), when the level of the sea was below the present one. These groups
started moving along the American continent during the following centuries,
until they arrived at its southern extreme, 12.600 years ago.
When the first Europeans arrived, they found an archipelago inhabited
by about 10.000 natives who belonged to different groups: selk'nam and
manek'enk (pedestrian nomad) and yamana and alakaluf (canoeist nomad).
Fifty years later there were just 350 of them.
Among the reasons of their disappearance, we find:
· the overexploitation of marine mammals, that deprived them of
their main source of feeding.
· the contagion of plagues and diseases brought by white man.
· their confinement in closed communities.
· the expropriation of their lands due to the introduction of sheep.
YAMANA:
they named themselves: YAMANA that means "alive or man" Bridges
named them YAGHAN, because of the Murray Channel (Yahga - Shaga) placed
in the middle of their territory. They occupied both sides of the Beagle
Channel and adjacent channels as far as Cape Horn.
They used to eat sea lions because of its high fat content, penguins,
whales, fish and shellfish, also trapped birds and used to pick up mushrooms,
fruits and roots. Strong and short, they had a wide and long thorax (in
comparison to lower extremities), robust arms and thin bent legs. They
wore just a sea lion's or otter's fur coat, that covered their back; women
also wore a sex cover. Families stayed most of the time on canoes (made
out of bark of tall deciduous and evergreen beeches) hunting and fishing,
seldom coming inland. Fire used to burn in the centre of the boat, placed
on rocks, clay and soil.
SELK'NAM:
this tribe lived in the central and northern area of the Island, they
are known as ONAS, yamana word that means "people or northern wind".
The mountain range was a natural frontier for their territories towards
south. They depended, basically on the guanaco hunting, they caught rodents
as a complement, and occasionally birds. When reaching the coast, they
picked up mollusks and beached marine mammals. In summer they ate a big
variety of plants. Men had a harmonious body and big muscular development.
On the contrary, women were shorter and fatter. They wore one or two guanacos's
leathers to wrap themselves. When camping, they used a tent built with
guanaco's fur supported with sticks, then it was folded and carried on
their backs (this task was in charge of women).
HASSH:
they called themselves MANEK'ENK and lived in the Mitre peninsula area.
Their habits were similar to the selk'man's: they hunted guanacos, foxes
and birds, but also obtained resources from the coasts like the Yamanas.
Their weapons were: the gaff, the bow and the arrow.
ALAKALUF:
they settled on Brecknock Peninsula (Chile) northwards, which included
most of the Chilean island and part of the Main Island. Their main activity
was fishing, moving constantly from one place to the other, looking for
sea lions, fish and penguins. The southern area of their territory, being
very windy, cold, rainy, with high mountains and huge glaciers, arose
no interest as far as white man was concerned. Therefore, the extinction
of these natives was slower than the rest.
TROUT FISHING IN USHUAIA,
TIERRA DEL FUEGO
Tierra del Fuego National Park
is an excellent attraction for sport fishing, not only for the quantity
and variety of the trouts that live in its rivers, but also for their
big size.
In Tierra del Fuego, we can find
the following species:
Stream trout: Comes from the Eastern
area of the United States, and prefers cold and transparent water. Her
back is olive green with whitish and red spots and her belly is pinkish
white. Their meat is pink that is why they are called "salmon trout".
Rainbow trout: Also comes from
the United States, has very attractive colours and also a red sash at
both sides. The tail is spotted. The back and sides can be either greyish,
green or blue with darker spots, and the belly is silvery white. It is
very much appreciated among sportsmen. It is a good fighter, strong and
different sizes.
Brown trout: These come from Europe,
It is a very common specie, very wild and aggressive. Their colour changes
depending on the place where they live. Usually their back is dark, brown
or green, lighter coloured at the sides with yellow belly. The rest of
their body has black and red spots.
Lacked Salmon: It is silvery,
with a back and head somewhat blue, black spots at the sides, dark fins
and colour creamed jaw and belly. Generally, fishing season spreads from
the end of October until beginning of April of following year (with some
changes), although there are special fishing areas in which the beginning
and ending of the season are set each time.
FISHING IN
USHUAIA: PLACES IN WHICH FISHING IS FORBIDDEN: In the called
"Chorrillo de los Salmones", Rio Grande Department.
Section of Olivia River that includes its mouth and 300 metres up from
the dam, and at both sides of the river's mouth to the sea.
It is indispensable to have the
fishing license, which is untransferable. The price varies according to
its lasting and category (foreigners and residents in Argentina). Younger
than 12, and retired people do not pay.
FISHING IN USHUAIA: FISHING LICENCES:
One expended by the Natural Resources Direction: valid in the whole province,
excepting Tierra del Fuego National Park. It can be acquired at Hunting
and Fishing Club (Maipú St. and 9 de Julio St. - Ushuaia) and at
different shops that are set up every year.
One given by the National Parks Administration: it is accepted in all
national parks in Patagonia. This license can be bought at National Park
Administration (1395 San Martin St. - Ushuaia) and at the entrance of
Tierra del Fuego National Park.
It is absolutely forbidden to fish during night.
The only methods authorised for fishing: spinning and flying cast.
Fishing must be practised with rod, reel and artificial baits, with three
arms hook. Nylon must be 0.35 mm thick as maximum.
The minimum size for salmons is 40 cm. and 35 cm. for the rest species.
It is allowed only one fish per person.
FAUNA OF TIERRA DEL
FUEGO
WHAT YOU CAN SEE FROM USHUAIA, TIERRA DEL FUEGO
Tierra
del Fuego has a rich and diversified fauna but we have few species of
land mammals that were originated here. These are: guanaco (lama guanicoe),
red fox, tucu-tucu (ctenomys magellanicus fueginus), rats, mice and bats.
On the other side about 190 species of birds can be found as well as wide
marine fauna. Other animals were brought to the island in the past, such
as: rabbits, beavers, Patagonian fox, and the musky rat, but these became
a problem as far as ecosystem is concerned.
LAND
ANIMALS As you walk along the forest the
following animals can be seen:
FUEGIAN
RED FOX
Their hair is long and noticeably reddish at their belly, legs and head,
greyish at the back and the end of the tail. It can easily be seen, because
it is a very curious animal, and screams loudly when he feels in danger.
It is carnivorous, eats rabbits, rats, birds, and also eggs and fruit.
They mate between August and September. Females provide shelter for the
young ones by digging a cave, gestation lasts about two months and they
give birth from three to six babies. The male feeds the mother and the
young ones.
GREY
PATAGONIAN FOX
It is smaller than the red one, having greyish back and tail, tawny legs
with slightly red sides. The chin and end of the tail are dark.
CASTILLA
RABBIT
Was brought from abroad and did adapt itself very well. It is about 45
cm long, being most of them reddish or grey, but some of them black or
white. They live in communities, mostly on the South of the Island. Their
presence is very notorious in the National Park as they prevent the regular
growth of the pastures, natural shelter of many birds. Among their enemies
are red foxes and some prey birds such as eagles.
CANADIAN
BEAVERS
They were brought from Canada in 1946 so as to encourage the fur industry.
It is a big aquatic rodent, with thick double hair. Its tail is hairless,
scaly and flattened, with the shape of an oar or shovel. Their front legs
are short and the back ones have well developed membranes. Their favourite
places are peat-bogs, lake and lastly rivers. They built big dams to live
in and store their food, therefore damaging its surroundings.
MUSKRAT
Also brought from Canada, well adjusted here and with an ever increasing
numbers of animals. It is a semi aquatic rodent (swims and dives very
well), has short, thick and smooth hair, the colour is dark brown and
shiny, with a scaly and bore tail. These animals lived originally in swamps,
but can also live on the coast of rivers, lakes and sometimes by the seashore.
They build their holes with whatever vegetation grows near the water or
else dig them. They eat vegetables, aquatic plants, barks and those bushes
that grow near the water .
GUANACO
They have small head, long neck and long pointed ears. At the end of their
feet they have two nails covered by small cushions that prevent the erosion
of the soil. Their hair is short, woolly and cinnamon colored. The muzzle
is black while the throat, neck and belly are whitish. Is able to live
in different climates and lands, but always looks for dry, fresh and wide
opened places. They only eat herbs such as graminaceous, leaves of high
and low deciduous beech trees, lichens and mushrooms. They gather in family,
formed by one male adult and several females with their offspring.
WATER
ANIMALS Beagle Channel is full of mollusks,
fish and crustaceans (worth pointing out the spider crab). Whales and
dolphins. Sea lions can be seen while sailing or else resting at the seashore.
SINGLE
HAIRED SEA LION
It is a permanent inhabitant of Tierra del Fuego, having a turned up,
short and wide muzzle and external ear. the male is bigger than the female
and has abundant hair. their extremities are flippers. The colour of the
hair differs depending on the age and sex. The young ones come to life
in October and their hair is black and shiny until they become one month
old, then it turns brownish. The family life is like a harem, there is
one leading male and from twelve to fifteen females. They swim to open
sea to find their food, that is to say fish, mollusks and crustaceans.
AIR ANIMALS There are about
two hundred species of birds in Tierra del Fuego of which a hundred and
thirty five are residents or visit the island regularly. Depending on
the place and time of the year different birds can be found. Tierra del
Fuego National Park is an excellent place for birdwatching due to its
protected ecosystem.
Up in the mountains and along the sea shore, it is easy to see the Andean
Condor. It usually flies and glides at great altitude with its wings spread
horizontally. Looking at it upwards it is black, and males have a red
crest.
Sailing along the Beagle Channel the following birds can be seen: The
cooking seagull that has yellowish legs, grey or southern seagull with
reddish legs and beak, the small South American seagull, a fast and tiny
bird with a sharp beak and a long and white tail.
USHUAIA
AND TIERRA DEL FUEGO NATIONAL PARK
TREN DEL FIN DEL MUNDO - TRAIN OF THE END OF THE WORLD
Travel the same route as the old Convict
Train did 80 years ago.
Come and enjoy an unforgettable journey,
learning the history, experiencing the natural wonders of the Tierra del
Fuego National Park while traveling aboard elegant rail carriages recreating
the "Golden Age" of steam.
The Ferrocarril Austral Fueguino (Southern
Fueguean Railway) is impressive not only for its style but also for its
association with the history of Ushuaia, "Prison for Relapsed Felons"
and the old Convict Train built to transport wood from the nearby forest
for heating and building purposes.
Today the railway is an environmentally
friendly means of permitting tourists to visit and view an otherwise inaccessible
part of the Tierra del Fuego National Park. The trains leave from Estación
del Fin del Mundo (End of the World Station), located 8 km West of Ushuaia.
The line owns 2 steam engines, a diesel locomotive, and 15 comfortable
carriages fitted with heating and large windows. The round trip is a 1
hour and 40 minutes journey and the single journey lasts 50 minutes.
The line runs alongside the Rio Pipo.
After crossing the river on Puente Quemado bridge, a right-hand bend round
a rocky outcrop reveals the steepest part of the line. At the first stop,
La Macarena platform, passengers are encouraged to alight to admire the
view. A stepped pathway rises 25 meters to a viewing gallery where a glacier
fed waterfall cascades down the mountainside. Another pathway descends
20 meters from the platform to a riverside area from where a reconstructed
Aboriginal settlement can be studied. Soon after leaving this station
the line enters the National Park. A second stop alongside the river reveals
the remains of an old sawmill. The line now leaves the main valley and
loops around a "Turbal", or raised peat bog, of which there
are many examples in Tierra del Fuego. Finally a sharp right-hand curve
brings the line to the start of woods where we reach the terminal station
of Estación Parque Nacional.
· Full commentary in English
and Spanish.
· Comfortable coffee shop and bar at the Estación del Fin
del Mundo, where visitors can enjoy local cakes and hot chocolate.
· Attractive souvenirs are available from the station shop.
· Exhibition of historical photographs and workshops visit available
on request.
EXCURSIONS IN
USHUAIA
FROM USHUAIA,
IN TIERRA DEL FUEGO NATIONAL PARK:
TRAIN OF THE END OF THE WORLD:
t his reproduction of the
"prisoner ´s little train", leaves from the station of
the End of the World, placed 8 km away from Ushuaia. It goes through one
of the rails used by the prisoners years ago, so as to provide wood to
the community. Apart from going through centennial forests and beautiful
rivers, valleys and peat-bogs, you can also learn more about the history
of jail. More about Train of the End of the World
TIERRA DEL
FUEGO NATIONAL PARK:
placed 12 km. west of Ushuaia, it is the only national park in our country
that has got maritime coasts (Beagle Channel). Its forest includes: high
and low deciduous beech and evergreen beech trees, its rivers, lakes and
peat-bogs frame beautiful views onto the channel. Footpaths allow you
to enjoy nature at full.
Harberton Ranch: as it the first ranch founded in the province, it is
the evidence of the rich past of Tierra del Fuego. Located 90 km east
from Ushuaia, it is possible to get there by land (N° 3 national road
and secondary road "J") or by sea. Its owners are descendants
of Anglican missionary Thomas Bridges. More about
Tierra del Fuego National Park
FROM USHUAIA:
ESCONDIDO AND FAGNANO LAKES:
60 km. north of Ushuaia (along N° 3 national road), located in between
the mountains at the base of Garibaldi Path, we find this very picturesque
lake, with a hostelry at its side. Besides walking along the footpaths
around the mountains, it is possible to practice sport fishing here. Fagnano
is an imposing international lake, placed 100 km. north of Ushuaia (N°
3 national road) and it is recognized for offering good fishing possibilities.
A hostelry, campsites and cottages form part of the accommodation options
by the lakeside.
FROM USHUAIA: MARTIAL GLACIAR After going through a winding car road
that climbs from Ushuaia to the Martial chain, you get to the base of
the alpine skiing slope, where a chair lift operates. From this point,
a track begins and takes you up to the glacier. It is necessary to climb
for two and a half hours, approximately, and all along the circuit it
is possible to enjoy a beautiful panoramic view of the city, Beagle Channel
and the Chilean islands: Navarino and Hoste.
An interesting option is to reach the mountain chain, following the valley
that goes to the right after reaching the other end of the chair lift.
This walk is not too difficult and gives the possibility to obtain an
excellent view of the Andorra valley (that goes behind the Martial chain),
as well as of Ushuaia city and Beagle Channel . Degree of difficulty:
Medium - Length: 4 km (to the glacier).
USHUAIA
PRISON MUSEUM On January 1896
the first group of 14 convicts arrived on board the naval ship "1°
de Mayo". In this way the "reincidents jail" got under
way housed temporarily in wooden and tin hunts.
The idea was to colonize with convicts and they immediately sent 11 more
men and 9 women volunteers. All were ex-convicts who had fallen again.
More about Ushuaia Prison Museum ...
TOLHUIN: At the eastern end of Fagnano
Lake, more than 100 km. north from Ushuaia, the third town of the province
is located, considered capital of the named "Heard of the Island".
You will be able here to take fishing excursions, do some trekking and
picture safaris, rent horses, boats and kayaks.
SAN PABLO CAPE:
Ppicturesque spot 180 km. north-east from Ushuaia, placed at the coast
of Argentinean Sea, at the mouth of Ladrillero and San Pablo rivers, where
there are good fishing possibilities. First it is necessary to travel
along N° 3 national road, and then go through "A" complementary
road, one of the most attractive roads of the province.
YEHUIN LAKE:
About 160 km. north of Ushuaia, going along N°3 national road, first,
and then taking "H" complementary road, we find Yehuin, Chepemut
and Yakush lakes, which are suitable for trout fishing, rowing boats and
watching the local rich fauna. It is possible to stay in a hostelry placed
at the lakeside.
The Shenolsh Hill placed in the area, is the natural habitat of the Andean
Patagonian condor, from where it is possible to enjoy a spectacular panoramic
view.
ANTARCTICA
Antarctica is a continent that spreads
around the South pole. Most of it, is circumscribed by the polar Antarctic
circle (66°33´south) and none of its points reach the 60°
south parallel.
From Ushuaia's harbour, between November and March, several ships, with
capacity for carrying between 38 and 1400 passengers, leave towards the
fascinating and mysterious white continent.
Due to the distance that separates Ushuaia from Antarctica (1200 km) and
the crossing of Drake Passage that takes, at least, two days, these trips
last about 8 days. When the voyage includes Cape Horn, Shetlands, Georgias
or Malvinas Islands, lasting increases to two weeks or more. The circumnavigation
of the white continent needs two months, approximately.
Along the circuit, different places are visited, chosen for the beauty
of their landscapes or their rich fauna, in which passengers can disembark
on board dingy boats.
In order to get off the boat, it is necessary to have impermeable clothes:
coat, trousers and boots, as well as cap and gloves, woolen clothes, sun
glasses and sun protector. All ships have a very good heating system,
so it is possible to wear light clothes while on board.
Fares of these voyages vary not just according to the circuit and characteristics
of the ship, but also for the king and location of the cabin. In all cases
you have full board and they include excursions, informative material
and lectures by naturalist and other scientists. The official language
on board is English. Fares do not include: personal insurance, alcoholic
drinks, laundry, phone calls or tips.
It is possible to visit Antarctica by vessel. A classical circuit, depending
on then weather conditions, includes a visit to Puerto Williams, (where
customer steps are done) and to Cape Horn, from where we leave towards
the peninsula.
Once on it, different scientific bases are visited, old whaler anchorage,
Shetland and Deception Islands (in the last one there is a crater in which
is it possible to have a thermal bath). Returning to Tierra del Fuego
starts going through Drake Passage again, this navigation lasts about
four days. These vessels can room between 2 and 8 passengers, the voyage
last 4 weeks, approximately.
TO BEAR IN MIND: While Continent is one of
the most important natural resources in the world. Therefore, protection
and preservation are necessary, that means to protect fauna and avoid
any kind of contamination, chemical as well as residual one. We do not
have to forget that there are scientific bases that make investigations
about changeable trends, such as: pollution and global weather change,
that seriously endanger the evolution of the whole world.
DAY 1 - Arrival to Ushuaia Airport and transfer to hotel. 03 nts
of accommodation with breakfast
DAY 2
- Excursion to Tierra del Fuego National Park. Return to the city and
take a Beagle Channel Navigation to see Isla de los Pàjaros, Isla
de los Lobos and Faro Les Eclareirs.
DAY 3
- Excursion to Fagnano and Escondido Lakes
DAY 4
- Transfer to airport
This is a basic program to visit Ushuaia Area. Please visit our tour list
to see more tours combining this area and others place in Argentina and
Chile