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EL REY NATIONAL PARK
Province of Salta
Some 80 Km due east
of Salta, the capital city of the province of the same name, is El Rey
National Park which was created in 1948 to protect a wide variety of habitats
found within the "bowl" which today comprises the 44,162 ha
of the park. The elevational gradient is reflected in the various vegetation
types from the crest of the surrounding ridge to the bottom of the valley
floor.
NATURAL
ASPECTS
The amphitheatre
which comprises the park is of singular and spectacular beauty. From the
crests descend a series of streams which come together to form the Popayán
river which flows out of the park. The climate is influenced by local
conditions and is cooler than the surrounding region.
The bottom of the park is of transitional chaco woods where hill chaco
species of tree grow, including the hill (horco) quebracho. This gives
way with the rising slopes, to the cloud forest and Yungas with tipas,
Enterolobium, jacarandas and southern wallnut; these in turn give way
to myrtle forests at 800m, then to the alder woods and podocarps. Yet
above these are the Polylepis trees and the upland grasslands.
Colouful birds of the area include the black-backed grosbeak and the rusty-browed
warbling-finch.
One of the most impressive aspects of the vegetation is the abundance
of epiphytes which often completely cover thick branches and trunks, including
orchids, bromelias cactuses, air plants, ferns; such is Aechmea sp, a
bromelia in which the base of the leaves accumulates water and is home
and refuge to a whole microfauna. The world's largest air plant (Tilandsia
maxima) grows here, its leaves some 4 to 5 feet long, its penduline flowering
head reaching nine feet.
Chaco species of fauna are found in the bottomlands, such as the red-legged
seriema and the chaco chachalaca. The dusky-legged guan is a denizen of
the lower montane forests; all these three species are easy to see as
are many of the animals which are becoming accustomed to man's presence,
such as two brockets, foxes and the collared and white-lipped peccaries.
There is a pond, albeit artificial, within easy walking of the HQ in the
middle of the park where waterbirds are abundant and interesting - coots,
jacanas, several species of ducks; the occasional tapir, that largest
of land mammals on the south american continent, visits the pond to cool
off, lolling in the water and feeding on the aquatic vegetation..
CULTURAL
ASPECTS
From earliest
times the area was occupied by groups of agriculturalists who used the
hillocks in the lowlands to raise their crops. The archaeological remains
and sites show characteristics shared with the Candelaria and San Francisco
cultures - grey and orange ceramic shards with "handles" of
animal shapes and polished stone axes.
In the XVIIIth century the Finca del Rey was an oriental outpost of Spanish
civilization fronting onto the wild chaco, administered by the Viceroy
of Peru. It was bestowed on Col. Fernández Cronejo y Rendón
by royal favour for expelling the Jesuits in 1767. Later Col. Cornejo
explored the Chaco Gualamba and the Bermejo river areas as far as the
junture with the Paraguay river. The name "El Rey" comes from
that origin. The foundations of the original house (La Sala) are to be
seen in front of the park HQ.
HOW TO GET THERE
From route
9 (here superimposed on route 34) turn off to Lumbreras; thence 45 km
east along route 5 to Paso de la Cruz. Turn north along route 20, which
after 48 km arrives at the portal of the park. Onwards ten km or so brings
one to the park's HQ. Be warned that route 20 crosses many fords and in
the rainy season (November to March) these may become temporarily impassable.
OF INTEREST TO THE
VISITOR
There are
two basic camping areas within the park, one at Popayán and the
other near the HQ.
Several trails lead to different areas of the park:
* La Chuña - a cut-off leading from HQ to the first ford on the
track to Pozo Verde;
* Los Ocultos - an interpretative trail 1.5km long through transition
forest some three km from HQ on the track to Pozo Verde;
* Chorro de los Loros - again leading off from the track to Pozo Verde,
ten kilometers long, through the montane forests to a small waterfall
* To Cerro Chañar - this is an extension of the Pozo Verde track,
steep, some 4 km long through the myrtle woods, podocarp stands and reaches
the uplands' grasslands.
* Road to Los Patitos lagoon - This is on the old access road 1.5 km from
the HQ, off the new one. Good for bird-watching.
* Road to Popayán - dirt and gravel road crosses the river ten
times, difficult and rough - (one is tempted to say it is only suitable
for four-wheel drive vehicles), through the chaco woods and riverine forest.
* Track to Pozo Verde - 12 km long; the first three are fair, the rest
steep, muddy and only open in winter, even so, restricted.
* to Santa Elena and Los Lobitos waterfall; about 4 km from HQ, dirt;
it traverses the ecotone (transition zone) between the hill chaco and
basal forests. This is being restored by elimination of the cattle that
grazed there until fairly recently. The
best season to visit the park is between April and October.
Thanks to APN - Administración
de Parques Nacionales
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